Year of the Snake: Vogue 2086 by Alexander McQueen for Givenchy, Part 1

February 27, 2013 § 2 Comments

Naomi Campbell modelling a green python strapless dress on the runway - Alexander McQueen - Givenchy Fall 1997 ready-to-wear

I’m a little late to the party, but—as part of Anne of Pretty Grievances’ Jungle January event, I thought it would be fun to use a reptile print to make the strapless dress from Vogue 2086, the first of Vogue Patterns’ Givenchy patterns by Alexander McQueen.

Vogue 2086 (1998) Strapless sheath and jacket with pierced front.

Vogue 2086 by Alexander McQueen for Givenchy (1998) Strapless dress and jacket. Model: Jacki Adams.

The dress and jacket are from the Fall 1997 prêt-à-porter, McQueen’s first ready-to-wear collection for Givenchy. (See my earlier post here.) As you can see from this Richard Avedon campaign photo, animal prints were a feature of the collection:

Honor Fraser in Givenchy by Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 1997 Richard Avedon

Givenchy Fall 1997 advertising campaign. Model: Honor Fraser. Photo: Richard Avedon.

The runway collection included not only leopard lace but also leopard dresses, skirts, and coats. (Fashion TV even has a highlights video of the leopard looks on the Givenchy runway; full runway video starting here.) Leopard lace was also used in this strapless catsuit, modelled by Shalom Harlow:

Vogue Italia Collections 1997 detailGivenchy FW 1997 RTW catsuit

McQueen showed versions of the Vogue 2086 sheath in both leopard and emerald green python (models: Michele Hicks and Naomi Campbell; photos via L’Officiel 1000 modèles):

GivenchyFW1997rtw_leopardGivenchyFW1997rtw_greenpython

Coming soon: a post on my reptile print PVC version of the Vogue 2086 strapless dress.

A Fourth Givenchy Pattern by Galliano

December 6, 2012 § Leave a Comment

Givenchy by John Galliano ad campaign Fall 1996

Detail, Givenchy Fall 1996 advertising campaign. Image via eBay.

Thanks to a runway video posted by blogger Fubuki, I’ve been able to identify a fourth Givenchy pattern designed by John Galliano. (See my post on the other patterns here.)

For a while I’d wondered about Vogue 1887, a tailored, mock wrap jumpsuit. Caveat emptor: an unscrupulous online dealer has been selling V1887 as Alexander McQueen, but the pattern appears in Vogue Patterns magazine prior to McQueen’s first Givenchy show in January 1997. My copy is copyright 1996 and, although the fabric requirements weren’t yet available, Vogue 1887 was first shown in the November/December 1996 issue of Vogue Patterns magazine, in a trends forecast on jumpsuits. By the January/February 1997 issue it’s featured in an editorial.

John Galliano for Givenchy tailored pinstriped jumpsuit pattern, Vogue 1887 (1996)

Vogue 1887 by John Galliano for Givenchy (1996) Jumpsuit.

Technical drawing for Vogue 1887 jumpsuit

Technical drawing for Vogue 1887 jumpsuit

Here’s the envelope description: Misses’ jumpsuit. Loose-fitting, straight-legged, cuffed, mock wrap, partially lined jumpsuit has self or contrast collar, shoulder pads, upper welt, flap, lower welt pocket, side seam pockets, concealed front pleat/zipper and long, two-piece sleeves.

Fubuki’s runway video of Galliano’s Fall 1996 prêt-à-porter collection for Givenchy shows two versions of the mock-wrap jumpsuit. (For a review of the collection see Suzy Menkes, “A Neat, Cool Take on Couture for Fall.”) The Vogue 1887 version is worn under a long, white jacket; the second version has a front drape and is shown with a single, embellished gold epaulette:

runway video still, Givenchy by John Galliano FW 1996 ready-to-wear jumpsuit and coatrunway video still, Givenchy by John Galliano FW1996 ready-to-wear flannel jumpsuitrunway video still, Givenchy by John Galliano FW1996 ready-to-wear flannel jumpsuit with gold matador epaulette

This matador look gives a better view of the epaulettes:

runway video still, Givenchy by John Galliano FW1996 ready-to-wear grey suit with black montera and gold matador epaulettes

Here’s an editorial photo of another jumpsuit from the same collection, from L’Officiel’s ready-to-wear special issue. The runway version was modelled by Chrystèle Saint Louis Augustin:

Givenchy bustier jumpsuit by John Galliano in L'Officiel no. 807, August 1996.

“All in one, a bustier jumpsuit in white-striped grey tennis flannel. To be worn with an ivory silk cape, Givenchy.” L’Officiel no. 807, August 1996. Photo: Bruno Bisang.

Where Am I?

You are currently browsing entries tagged with Givenchy at PatternVault.

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 249 other followers

%d bloggers like this: