There’s a War On: Weldons So-Easy Patterns
January 25, 2013 § 2 Comments
Bomb Girls is back. For me, much of the show’s interest lies in its portrayal of women’s wartime fashions, both on and off the factory floor. One line of sewing patterns that I associate specifically with the Second World War is Weldons So-Easy patterns.
Founded in 1879, Weldon’s was England’s first major pattern company. The So-Easy line seems to have been introduced during World War 2. Weldons So-Easy patterns included a range of designs, from day wear to toys; the earlier women’s So-Easy designs tended to be available in only three sizes.
So-Easy patterns don’t bear copyright dates, but some include the war rationing notice, “Professional dressmakers are reminded that they must comply with the Making of Civilian Clothing (Restriction) Orders.” These measures were passed in 1942-43. (For the text and discussion see Cargo Cult Craft’s posts.) According to U.K. vintage dealer Tracy of Wickedlady Collectables, Weldons did not promote So-Easy patterns in their magazine, but the mention of purchase tax, introduced in late 1940, can also help with dating.
One thing that distinguishes wartime So-Easy patterns is their pinup-style illustrations straight out of Mrs Henderson Presents. Here is a selection of World War 2 Weldons So-Easy patterns, with an emphasis on lingerie.
This ‘Pretty Undies’ set includes a brassiere, full slip, and knickers with pointed yoke:
These ‘Slim Line Undies’—a full slip and knickers—are held in the National Trust Collections:
These ‘Simple Undies’ include a nightgown and slip with seam interest:
This pattern includes a bra and knickers in two styles, French and Directoire (bloomers), the last with interesting details:
This two-piece bathing suit with skirt was available in four sizes:
My personal favourite must be the Two-Way Siren Suit, an air raid coverall with options for a hood and gathered ankles:
For fans of Bomb Girls, which films in the Toronto area, it’s possible to visit some of the locations for the show. Victory Munitions and other sets were built in an old furniture factory in Etobicoke, while street scenes were shot in Hamilton. The Witham mansion is Oshawa’s Parkwood estate, the former home of General Motors founder R.S. McLaughlin. (Read an interview with the cinematographer here; download production notes here.)
Mirror, Mirror
January 10, 2013 § 4 Comments
Happy New Year, everyone! This year I look forward to sharing more of my original pattern research and sewing projects, including my ’40s cape, an over-the-top ’70s Dior, and two by Alexander McQueen. For the moment I’ve been temporarily sucked back into academia, so my first post of 2013 is an images post.
Advertising for home sewing often involves women and mirror images. Promotional illustrations will show a woman standing before a mirror, or contemplating her reflection, as on these leaflets from Butterick and McCall:
An Edwardian McCall’s ad shows an interesting variation: the mirror reflects a fashion plate, the idealized, well-dressed woman the dressmaker will become through her labour. The slogan spells out the idea of wish-fulfilment, promising the home dressmaker that she can “realize her dreams” with McCall’s patterns:
The fashion plate also serves to promote a McCall’s pattern. Here is the full illustration:
I know this isn’t the only sewing ad I’ve seen based on this concept. Can you think of others?
In other news, PatternVault is now on Twitter! Follow me for updates on the blog, shop, and vintage and designer fashion.











